Of Milk Powder and Mao
November, 2006
When you get off the plane at Shenzhen Airport, do not be too surprised if you meet him. He dresses neatly in a well-tailored suit, looks fascinatingly good and speaks fluent English; and he is a beggar. He will tell you how he is out of job and needs money to buy milk powder for his child – not money for alcohol or private vices – milk powder for his infant son. Being a crafty and seasoned traveler, you might offer to buy him some milk powder rather than surrender hard cash. He follows you to the airport mart – you might buy him something extra for his wife, because you rarely see such “noble” beggars. You leave, having done some good, smug and philanthropic. But all the airport staff knows he carts home a bundle of stuff each day, sometimes with hard cash included, and resells these goods to marts in the city for less than the rack rate.
Surprised? Not unless you have seen hordes of them roaming about, disguised in all possible forms. Once you’ve passed the stage of being cheated a few times, you will be just like most urban Chinese: when a construction worker from rural China asks you for only 5 yuan for lunch – because his Hong Kong boss has not paid him for two months – you’ll simply shrug off, walk away, feeling not even indifferent.
Whenever people ask me where I am from, I would utter “Shenzhen” with mixed emotions. Pride? Yes, because it’s the first Special Economic Zone when the Chinese first broke open the prison of Cultural Revolution. Shame? Yes, because most people don’t even know who their neighbors are. When we were kids, almost all of us were told a Golden Survival Rule: don’t talk to strangers for whatever reason. When we grow up and have children, we will tell them the same thing. It is a vicious cycle. Time or Newsweek talk about the repercussions of an over-heating economy. Forget about repercussions; it’s a big word; you see it right in your face: distrust.
Three decades ago, when my mother was my age, she saw peace: in her village people didn’t need to close the doors at night; she saw persecutions: her uncle tried to sell his extra potatoes but was arrested and beaten in public. She may not even realize it was persecution; her entire family subsequently disliked the uncle for being “capitalist”. “Entrepreneurship” or “individualism” was definitely not in the dictionary.
It was 1979. A small hole was drilled in the wall of the prison cell, letting in light and fresh air: Shenzhen became China’s first window to the world. My parents came to this new city – a fishing village that had only dirt – and smelled freedom, just like many others who rushed to this Hong Kong’s Closest Neighbor. In my parents’ old album, I see blue-tinted colored photos of them posing proudly with a new TV set, or in the backdrop of cranes and skyscrapers in scaffolds. “It was a good camera,” my father reminisced, “amongst the first batch of Japanese imports.”
Gradually Zhuhai opened up. Shanghai opened up. The whole nation opened up. For the first time, people realized that they had been imprisoned. Now they saw the hole, they saw light, they crushed the wall, they rushed through the opening, they were shrouded in dirt and dust, they were caught in a stampede. They were freed, but without the Great Leader to instruct them, they cringed yet nonetheless charged forward like flies flinging themselves against the windowpane. Ten years back they followed the Little Red Book; now with Toshiba TV sets, Mitsubishi washing machines, Nikon cameras, which mantra should they follow? Gone were Mao’s teachings. Gone were Confucius’ principles of ren, or universal kindness. Struggling. Bewildered. Lost in the hazy daze of neon lights.
See a construction worker asking you for lunch money even if it is only 5 yuan? Who cares? He may just be another conman. Donate to charity? No, thank you, donate to me first; my company’s restructuring and I may be the next to leave.
In this turbulence of conflicting values and goals – if people still have clear values and goals – it takes only one event to break out of this prison of distrust, just like how once the Chinese were set free: you may see a stranger chasing a pickpocket, a taxi sending a pregnant lady to hospital for free. All these happen every day. You see them in newspapers. And you’ll see more. People begin to reflect. Though there are still groans and moans on distrust, as well as practical tips to fend off conmen, you start seeing more anecdotes, more photos of little touches of kindness. It’s a slow process, but you can definitely see the progress. You begin to appreciate others. Perhaps next time you come to Shenzhen again, you’ll give 5 yuan to the construction worker; you’ll buy that airport beggar milk powder. You will leave, happy and philanthropic.